Introduction: Ruling 2000W Galvanic Longboard

Check forbidden my new E-sk8

HI everyone!

I decided to make an galvanising longboard this yr. Boosted Board has inspired me and it's such a nice electric longboard, but so expensive (equivalent 1500€ for the 2000W model).

Before I part with I will explicate some things because I didn't really deprivation to copy the Boosted Board plan.

First of every last, I wanted to make an Exciting longboard as light as realizable, so I secondhand separate Lipo cells and made a very thin battery pack (12mm) so citizenry won't see it from the side that IT's an Electric longboard.

The second thing is the power, I would like a longboard with a power between 1500W-2000W, The motor can handle 2220W but I use a 6S battery so the power leave embody a spot lower the like 2000W max peak merely that's really enough, trust me ;)

The other reason why I use a 6S battery is because once you go higher than 6S the price of the ESC is and then untold higher like double the price for 8S or 10S, Too charging a 6S battery is much much easy than a 10S.

If we discourse speed, I theoretically calculated the board at about 46km/h and then I would practically get hold of some 40km/h. And actually I have proven it on the smoothest road in our town and I can ride 42km/h soap hie.

And then along the most roadstead I can perfectly reach 40km/h which is actually so amazingly fastened.

The battery with 220Wh bequeath give me a 14km ride.

The longboard I ride for a while is a Madrid Weezer and it isn't an valuable board (only 100€) but it has a bit of the looks of a boosted board.

In total I have spent like 300€ for every single part (take out the longboard itself) to convert my longboard into an Electric longboard

I think you know enough information to head start the account how I made my Electric longboard.


! Video's coming before long thus stay tuned by this instructable or my youtube channel !

Ill-trea 1: Collect All the Parts You Need

What do we need?

SK3 - 320Kv Motor: Hobbyking

You can usance other motors too but I feature deliberate the speed and torque on this drive and it is the most powerfull in the 50mm diam serial and non very dearly-won (52€)

120A ESC: Hobbyking

This is a boat ESC and runs very smooth with no problems. You tin can as wel buy a program card for this ESC which I also did. You bottom change several things like acceleration, brake, lop off voltage,... -> Hobbyking

Lipo Batteries:Hobbyking

I bought 12 cells of these, so I fundament throw a 6S2P battery multitude, the cells are 5000mAh soh a 6S2P will give me 22.2V and 10000mAh, enough to suffer diverting long ride.

Other alternative to get a svelte battery camp is this Multistar 6S 10Ah pack which you terminate disassemble, Here's a linkup how it looks like.

Sender and Pass catcher:Hobbyking

I used this controller because there are used a good deal for electric longboards and there's a 3D printed version available which only has a throttle because you don't necessitate a steering wheel on a longboard controller. BadWolf GT2B Causa

So you deman to unscrew the original controller and place all electrical components in the 3D printed manikin which is much more smaller. -> Gradually explaination

6S lipo charger:Hobbyking

Same dainty battery charger 250W 10A so it bequeath charge my battery in 1 hour! I know in the picture you can see I bought another charger but it's only 50W 5A charger, it was a very cheap one but it takes 5 hours to amply charge the battery so the 250W charger testament be my next upgrade.

XT60 Connectors:Hobbyking

Very just connectors and the own a undersize lock which never came phlegmy during a turn on.

4mm Bullet connecter:Ebay

this is to connect the ESC to the motor (ESC has standard no connectors so you need to solder them)

6S balance charger cable television service:Ebay

To rush the lipo assault and battery pack you call for 6S charging wire, this will balance and charge every cell perfectly.

Bronze timing block 30T:Ebay

This is a 30 teeth pulley-block, 16mm wide (HTD5M serie)

(btw why buying expensive pulleys and belts on special sites like sdp/si when you also find them very cheap on ebay, but I let to articulate I had searched soh fu*king much until I finally plant the pulleys I needed)

Metal timing block 15T:Ebay

This is a 15 teeth block and has a 6mm bore which fits flawless on the motor lance. (HTD5M serie)

Rubber timing belt 54T:Ebay

I bought 5 of these because if peerless should violate I rich person some extra but until today atomic number 102 problems with my first belt out!

If you want to calculate the center distance and unusual stuff very quickly -> Pulley/Belt Computer (HTD5M serie)

Silicon Wire:Ebay

You will need atomic number 14 wire to make your bombardment, this wire is identical flex and rump baulk high temperatures so if you solder your wires the isolation won't melt. I used 10AWG but 12AWG is a trifle smaller in diameter and will also be enough, thusly just saying I'm using pretty fully grown wires but they won't overheat.

Longboard Madrid Weezer:EuroSkate

Make an aluminium motor Mount: Download my discoverer design

Synthetic rubber bed sheet like 1mm grumose

Bolts and Whacky

Step 2: Brand the Motor Mount

First of every last, make the centrifugal mount

I didn't made the motive mount by myself but asked my old secundary school if they were able to realise 2 pieces for me. I designed the motorial mount aside inventor and it's specialy made for 2 speeds, so the slots I made to srew the motor in are wide enough to move the motor and adjust the tension of the belt.

I thought when 40km/h wasn't fast enough I can also change other motor timing pulley with 20T instead of 15T, this means the board should fling like 55km/h. So what I privation to say is that the motor mount is designed for 2 pulleys (15T and 20T) but I retrieve I'm not going to change it to a 20T pulley because 40km/h is so fast.

You can buy out motor mounts connected some sites only they wish never glucinium exactly care you desire them to be.

3D printing is maybe also an option but you require to make a stronger concept and purpose inviolable plastic and not the plastic you find in the regular 3D printers.

Step 3: Solder the Electric Parts

Solder the connectors to the ESC

the ESC has standard atomic number 102 connectors so you birth to solder them by yourself

- 3x 4mm bullet connectors to hack the ESC into the motor (Female)

- 1x XT60 connexion to plug the battery into the ESC (Female)

Solder and construct the battery pack

primary you need to know how to link up the batteries, so we are going to make a 6S battery pack.

This means 6 cells will sustain connected in serie which will cook a potential dro of 22.2V (3.7*6)

But I have 12 cells so you want to connect 2 cells in synchronic, than you sustain 6 "packs" which you need to connect in serie. 2 cells in parallel will double the capacity and of run over twice the range.

Step 4: Close to Changes to the Trucks and Wheels

Let the motor hop on fit along the trucks

The trucks aren't perfectly round to put the motor mount on that so we need to pass nicely round with a lathe.

I made the whole part 16mm diameter and 75mm long from the outside.

Watch the word-painting where I mentioned the dimention.

Constrain the 30T pulley to the wheel

We have made 2 additive parts which fits into the wheel to make IT strong and nicely centered.

Basic we made the wheels nice and round from the interior so we have also putted them into the lathe.

Both sides I guess 5mm deep to put the 2 alluminium parts into the wheel.

Later that the 30T pulley needed a bigger bore same 20mm so it won't touch the truck.

Eventually 4 holes were drilled through all part and we tapped M5 into the 30T pulley indeed the bolt ISN't screwed fully direct the whole pulley-block.

And then now the hard parts are finished and we only need to put everything together!

Tone 5: Put Everything Put together

The first matter I did was making a study on paper of the real dimensions to realise clear where I'm gonna put everything.

First of whol I induce glued a tack of rubber to the underside of the board. Just to protect the battery but it's not real necessary.

Secondly, I trained 8 holes (M5) into the board and directly through the bad and plastic side rails.

After this I pasted the ESC and Barrage pack and the Pass receiver in the right position.

I didn't used a lot of glue to gum the battery, just a line of glue in the middle of the battery.

Than I made other nibble of rubber to fit tightly o'er the battery pack and the esc, I successful a mess into the golosh to connect the battery into the esc and in my opinion it is a slow and clean solution.

Finally I needed to cut the plastic side rails round at the end so it would fit in the shape of my longboard.

Step 6: Pictures of My Final Creation

!!! I want to give thanks Robbe Derks who has helped me with this impressive project !!!

2 People Made This Project!

Recommendations

  • Anything Goes Contest 2022

    Anything Goes Contest 2022